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Glimpses of life from Yaqueta Island, Fiji by Mark Wells
Clare and I recently visited Yaqueta Island in the Yasawas island group in Fiji. The name ‘Yasawa’ translates in English to ‘Paradise’. Stunningly beautiful Yaqueta is approximately 100km offshore from Viti Levu, the main island of Fiji. This part of the Pacific is called Bligh Water, since it was through here that Captain Bligh, of HMS Bounty fame, sailed with his loyal crew on their epic journey to the Dutch East Indies. 

The fast ferry from Denerau took almost 4 hours to reach Yaqueta, where a small boat met us and took us ashore to Navutu Stars - a small boutique resort with 10 bures and a rustic bar and dining area.Our time there was very much about the sea, the sun and the kind and welcoming resort staff. Each day we were taken in the small boat for snorkelling adventures to isolated bays on the island. We saw some amazing fish and corals. We also went further by boat to swim in the famous limestone caves of Sawa-i-Lau, with deep water below and a soaring cathedral like roof above.
The staff came mostly from the local village, about a 15 minute walk from the resort. Chatting with them, we learned how hard life had been during the pandemic, when tourism ceased, and with it the cash economy. Some locals moved to the mainland, while life on the island became more of a subsistence existence. The island is quite dry, so the crops grown were limited. Tourists enjoy the sun, but plants prefer more rain. The regular ferry service was reduced and with it the supplies that are brought in, and the produce that is sent back to the mainland. Fishing was restricted with a shortage of petrol.We heard of villagers voyaging back to the mainland in their open boats and small outboard to pick up supplies or take the sick to hospital. It would have been a long voyage in an open boat!
the villagers, and the shortages of things we take for granted. We visited the village hall, where the woman had gathered to sell us their crafts. The Village school was an experience. The teachers gave us a very warm welcome in their extremely hot office, where we were told the photocopiers hadn’t worked for some time and the facilities were very basic. The teachers were enthusiastic and grateful for our small contributions. You could not help but compare the advantages that we have in New Zealand, to their situation.
Dolly the resort dog was a real character! She was fortunate to have been rescued from a nearby island - in a weak and emaciated state – she couldn’t move her hind legs – after her owners had moved to the mainland during Covid and left her. Tourists from Navutu Stars found her while out kayaking, and asked the resort, if she could live there and they would send money each month for her food. This was agreed and Dolly moved in! Dolly loves people. On our first day we went for a walk along the beach. Dolly spotted us and ran to join us, frequently stopping to dig for crabs and when they surfaced, she chased them as they ran away. When I went snorkelling off the resort beach, I was some 100m out, and suddenly I felt a large ‘being’ beside me. We had been warned about stingrays, so I was on high alert! To my surprise I found it was Dolly, who had swum out from shore and wanted to rest on my arm! Dolly fully engaged in resort life, she joined in hikes up the hill, rode on paddle boards, and hung around the resort kitchen hopefully! 

The care of Dolly also illustrated the partnership between the owners of the resort and the local people. The owners loved the place and spent much time managing and improving it, while also helping to improve things for the local villagers. The locals loved their island and respected the resort for providing them with some income in paradise. The all loved Dolly!
Many people in New Zealand have spent a lot of time complaining about the privations and restrictions we endured during the pandemic. Travel helps open your eyes to the lives of others. We absolutely loved our time on Yaqueta Island and returned home with very fond memories of a wonderful holiday, and with a very strong sense of appreciation of how lucky we are to live in New Zealand. Bula!
Isa we are lucky here in Aoteoroa. Big Wig Ed.